Holding Water: The Watermelon & the Black Agrarian Legacy

This year, SAAFON will be hosting our first Watermelon Convergence, in partnership with the Mississippi Association of Cooperatives and Black Dirt Farm Collective, with funding support from The Southern Black Farmer Community-Led Fund (linked). The objective is to dive into all things watermelon – seeds, cultural production practices, logistics and markets, pest-mitigation and soil relationships, with a small cadre of farmer and farmer-organizers at Indian Springs Farmer Association Co-op. Over the course of 3 days attendees will share meals, engage in collective work to support the co-op preparing for Summer holiday market demand, identify existing supply chain infrastructure, share market contract opportunities, document stories and weave new narratives about how Black farmers relate to watermelon.

The story of watermelon within the Black agrarian experience is epochal, stretching far beyond the Americas. For years, scholars believed the melon’s origins lay in South Africa, linked to the citron melon. Yet, recent genetic studies reveal that the domesticated watermelon of North America is most closely related to the Kordofan Melon of Sudan, nestled in the heart of Northeast Africa. Across West Africa, other melons share a deep kinship with the fruit we now recognize as watermelon.

Regardless of the specifics, one truth remains indisputable: the watermelon is, without question, African. Its seeds knew African soil long before the Atlantic bore witness to kidnapped African people. Long before Europe emerged from the depths of the Dark Ages, before the Mongols knew the rise of the Khan. When this revolutionary crop took root in America, it fashioned a new identity, bearing characteristics found nowhere else in the world. The earliest wild watermelons of Africa were bitter, watery, and bland. Yet, through centuries of Black agricultural expertise, both during and after slavery, the fruit was refined—its sweetness deepened, its flesh turned redder, and its succulence amplified.

This transformation was not by chance. Attentive care for the soil, inherited knowledge of irrigation, and generations-old cultivation techniques—all rooted in African traditions—played a pivotal role in making the watermelon of the Americas richer and juicier. Even the very varieties we revere today are shaped by Black hands. Take the Georgia Rattlesnake, cultivated by Black farmers in South Carolina and Georgia as early as the 1830s. Though still popular today, this heirloom once reigned as the most cultivated watermelon in the South. Then there’s the once-endangered Moon and Stars watermelon, which held its prominence in the early 1900s but, by the 1980s, was brought back from obscurity by Black farmers across Mississippi, Georgia, Alabama, and the Carolinas.

In the years following the Civil War, during the Post-Emancipation Farming Boom, Black farmers arguably became the nation’s largest producers of watermelon. More than just a crop, it was a symbol of liberation—one of the first cash crops cultivated and sold by newly freed Black agrarians. Watermelon was sold at bustling markets, along dirt roads, and even directly to white business owners who sought out the sweetest, juiciest melons grown in the South. It was more than sustenance—it was economic power, a means of independence for a people forging their way in an America still unwilling to see them free.

Yet, the Black agrarian stronghold on watermelon could not withstand the relentless assault of systemic racism. Discriminatory financial institutions, racially targeted government policies, and the rise of industrialized agriculture all worked to dismantle Black landownership. At its peak in 1910, Black farmers owned a staggering 16 million acres of land, much of it devoted to crops like watermelon. But by 1997, over 90% of that land had been lost—stolen through legal loopholes, denied access to loans, and driven into foreclosure by discriminatory policies. Today, corporate interests dominate the watermelon industry, but its Black agrarian roots remain undeniable.

Like country music, the blues, and gospel, watermelon is another Black gift to American history—a crop nurtured, perfected, and carried forward by the hands of Black farmers. And now, Black agrarianism is rising once more, growing at a rate unseen since the early 1900s. With its ancestral significance, the watermelon is reclaiming its rightful place—not just as a fruit, but as a symbol of Black independence, resilience, and cultural power.

Cynthia Hayes Memorial Scholarship Now Accepting Applications

The Cynthia Hayes Memorial Scholarship honors the co-founder of the first regional network for African American organic farmers in the United States.

Cynthia Hayes spent most of her life as an organizer and advocate, and was influential in the direction and development of several organizations. She, alongside Dr. Owusu Bandele, founded SAAFON to ensure Black farmers and their interests were represented in the sustainable agriculture movements.

Last week, the Southeastern African American Farmers’ Organic Network (SAAFON) and the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (NSAC) opened applications for our annual scholarship in honor and memory of the late Cynthia Hayes, co-founder of SAAFON.

This year’s scholarship welcomes applications from Black and Indigenous undergraduate and Masters students from all Tribal Nations, U.S. states, and territories. Applicants should be prepared to discuss their interest in food justice, sustainable agriculture, and how these issues impact Black and Indigenous farmer communities in the United States.

“SAAFON is proud to announce the 2025 Cynthia Hayes Memorial Scholarship, in honor of our visionary founder and her immeasurable impact on the sustainable agriculture and Black food justice movements. We look forward to continuing our investment in the next generation of leaders in partnership with the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition, for this year and well into the future,” said Whitney Jaye, Co-Executive Director at SAAFON. 

The Cynthia Hayes Memorial Scholarship will offer one graduate and two undergraduate students a $5,000 award. Scholarship recipients will also have the opportunity to connect with sustainable food and farm advocates and become more involved with the partnering organizations and their networks.

“The Cynthia Hayes Memorial Scholarship is a powerful way for NSAC and SAAFON to honor Cynthia’s legacy, especially when programs that uplift Black and Indigenous students are under threat,” says Tyler Edwards, Grassroots Advocacy Coordinator at NSAC. “With this scholarship, we are investing in the education of Black and Indigenous advocates who will go on to support diverse and resilient food systems around the country.” 

To be considered, undergraduate students must have completed half of their respective programs by the end of December 2024, and graduate students must have completed at least 4 courses by December 2024. Applicants will be evaluated on their interest in sustainable agriculture, policy, and grassroots organizing, and must have demonstrated knowledge or experience in racial equity and an interest in pursuing leadership or a career in the sustainable food and farm movement.

The deadline to apply is May 1, 2025.

Apply at this link: Hayes Memorial Scholarship Application

Questions related to the Cynthia Hayes Memorial Scholarship should be directed to scholarship@sustainableagriculture.net.

Summer is a Time of Activation at SAAFON

Authors:
Alsie Parks and Whitney Jaye, SAAFON’s Co-Executive Directors

As you may have noticed, our website and our newsletter have a new look! Rooted in the wisdom, stories, experiences and visions of our founders, and Black farmers across the U.S. South and Caribbean, these refreshed elements tell the story of our history and future. We hope that you will enjoy them, as we look forward to providing more robust storytelling about our work and network.  

The buzz of the summer season has still not winded down, even as we swiftly approach the autumnal equinox. In this spirit, much like nature, Summer for SAAFON has been a time of activation, moving and shaking, being in the “field.” We get busy when our farmers get busy, and the months leading up to Fall are spent on farms, in the landscape, and continuing our institutional development work to be in solidarity and service.  

Although we hold our roles and responsibilities as institutional stewards, we will always be field organizers. Time in the field, with our farmers and our organizing kin, enriches the quality of our touches and feeds the organization’s vision and mission. Some recent personal highlights:  

  • Cooking and preparing meals for our farmers at the Weaving Wisdoms gathering, one of the largest in-person gathering of our members coming together across geographies to date;  
  • Linking up with Braiding Seeds fellows on the land as they gathered in Georgia, helping our farmers hold space for radical hospitality and sharing our kinship and analysis;  
  • Weaving cultural connections through storytelling and sipping homemade sapodilla wine while hosting a mixer for the community we are becoming a part of on St. Croix.  

Our consistent desire to be with our folks and be of service to farmers is one of the many rewards that comes with the hard work of relationship and institution building.  

While SAAFON has diligently worked to serve our members, we do nothing without being in relationship. We understand the value of an ecosystem of care – the web of support necessary to increase the viability of farms – and are a part of the support system, alongside organizers and institutions in our region. Building within our landscape is a part of our organizing strategy, and we prioritize lifting the vast work happening in our collective movement. 

This season, we celebrated our collaboration and co-stewardship of the Southern Black Farmer Community Led Fund, a space where we invest in the Southern region, which has entrusted SAAFON to cultivate our Southern Agrarian Youth Network (SAYN). It is exciting that we can prioritize intergenerational exchange, and nurturing and connecting young farmers and land stewards in the South. This past weekend, we realized months of planning for the 2nd Annual SAYN Gathering at Foxfire Ranch in Waterford, Mississippi. With an intersection with blues artists, camping out underneath the stars, and eating Big Mama Annie’s food, this gathering fed and nourished the legacy extension and continual renewal of Black agrarianism by next the generation farmers and youth.  

Amid our ongoing building of relationships, institution, and landscape, we recognize the nexus of the historical and current conditions that shape our material and climate reality. During our time in St. Croix in July, we heard from farmers about their visions, needs, and the continued advocacy it has required for them to provide the vital role they play in the island food system. This summer, as Ernesto transitioned from a tropical storm to a hurricane on route to the U.S. Virgin Islands, farmers collectively organized themselves, rebuilding, and remaining steadfast in their call to feed their people and communities, now and in the future. This persistence of farmers is the foundation of our system – their commitment calls for movements that prioritize food security, sovereignty, and justice to continue to invest in the farm infrastructure and farmer organizing that it takes to sustain us all. And it is with that imperative that we at SAAFON continue to serve, and be in service to, expand, laugh, craft kinship, build, work alongside each other, and dig in. 

SAAFON Hosts Inaugural Agrarian Revival Fest: Rooting in Our Practices

Date

Author
Alisha Johnson Perry, SAAFON’s Director of Development

We are pleased to announce our inaugural Agrarian Revival Fest: Rooting in Our Practices on Saturday, October 12, 2024, at Boggs Rural Life Center in Keysville, Georgia. 

This free festival is a celebration of organic agriculture and Black agrarianism, designed to highlight the enduring legacy of Black farmers across the Southeast. A farmer-centered, family-friendly daylong event, Agrarian Revival Fest promises attendees an exploration of land practices that are both sustainable and ancestral, integrating the past, present, and future of Black agrarianism. Festival happenings include: 

  • Farm Tours: A two site farm tour led by Tianna Neal of Starlit Roots, highlighting small scale organic agriculture and collective farming 
  • “Ask an Organic Farmer” Booth: Engage with Jesse Buie, of Ole Brook Organics in Mississippi, to learn about the journey and evolution of organic certification. 
  • Skill Shares and Farm Demonstrations: Participate in a nature/herb walk, community dye demo facilitated by Keisha Cameron of High Hog Farm, and see various practices led by SAAFON farmers including seedsaving and compost tea. 
  • Storytelling Trail: Take a walk through history to experience stories of the Boggs Rural Life Center’s vibrant past at the intersection of education, agriculture, and rural life skills. 
  • Cultural Celebration: Enjoy a drumming circle, and come learn more about Black agrarian culture! 

While there is no charge to attend Agrarian Revival Festival, SAAFON encourages attendees to complete the attached registration form for more logistical details and event updates, including how to take advantage of the roundtrip chartered bus ride between Atlanta and Keysville on Saturday, October 12th, and overnight camping village tickets on Boggs Center grounds for those who want to extend their experience. 

SAAFON seeks co-sponsors for this significant agricultural celebration. Interested donors should contact Alisha Johnson Perry, Director of Development, at 504-564-5845 or ajperry@saafon.org on or before Friday, September 27, 2024, to meet printing deadlines.

We are honored to host our inaugural Black agrarianism festival at the Historic Boggs Rural Life Center. Boggs holds deep cultural and historical significance as a site of Black educational and agricultural excellence, and its support of community farming – including eight acres of community farming land maintained by the Central Savannah River Area (CSRA) farmer cluster – makes it the perfect setting for this landmark event.  

All are invited to join us on October 12th as we celebrate and uplift the legacy of Black Agrarianism and sustainable farming practices! For media inquiries or more information, please contact SAAFON Co-Executive Directors Whitney Jaye & Alsie Parks at wjaye@saafon.org, aparks@saafon.org, or (920) 372- 2366.